After shirtsleeve sightseeing, the orchestra took a step closer to Northeast Ohio winter as they moved on to Paris. There was still a little ice in the shady spots when they arrived at Paris Orly airport shortly after noon. A brisk wind kept the comfort level down, but that didn't stop many of the musicians from taking a brief tour of the Musee d'Orsay. Built in an old train station, which fell into disuse when the trains grew too long for its platform, the Musee d'Orsay houses an extensive collection of Impressionist art.

Others wandered over to the Eiffel Tower, about a 10 minute walk from the orchestra's hotel. I didn't meet anyone who'd actually tried to climb it, though. On a Saturday, the lines for admission are daunting.

The 2,300 seat Salle Pleyel, the home of L'Orcheste de Paris, is world famous. Its acoustics seem good, if variable from seat to seat. After a short rehearsal to acclimate the orchestra to the hall and reset balances, the orchestra dressed for an 8 PM concert including Beethoven's Violin Concerto and Stravinsky's Rite of Spring. Tonight's was the fifth performance of this concert since the orchestra left Cleveland.

I'm sorry to say I can't give you a firsthand report. For the first time on this tour, I wasn't able to gain admission to the hall for the concert. Orchestra members reported that the performance was well received, with a standing ovation. Christoph von Dohnanyi delivered both encores -- Dvorak's Opus 46 No. 8 Slavonic Dance, and the Prokofiev Classical Symphony Finale -- without delay.

The performers got something this evening besides generous applause. When they returned to their hotel, each player found waiting for him or her a bottle of Bordeaux. It was a welcome gift from L'Orchestre de Paris, and it was accompanied by a note reading:

A l'attention de Mesdames, Messieurs les artistes musiciens et membres de l'administration de l'Orchestre de Cleveland:

L'Orchestre de Paris est particulierement heureux de vous accueillir a la salle Pleyel pour ce beau concert qui enchantera, j'en suis sur, le public parisien. Les musiciens de l'Orchestre se joignent a moi pour vois souhaiter la bienvenue a Paris et un sejour, nous l'esperons, agreable dans notre capitale. Amities de nous tous a vous tous.

(To the attention of the musicians and administrative staff of the Cleveland Orchestra: The Orchestra of Paris is very happy to welcome you to the Salle Pleyel for this beautiful concert which, I am sure, will delight the Paris audience. The Orchestra's musicians join me in wishing you a pleasant stay in Paris. All the best from all of us to all of you.)

-- Georges-Francois Hirsch